Nature




"Nature is the medium in which life transpires,"
Scott Russel Sanders on Wendell Berry.


Friday, July 1, 2011

Day 10: Henry W. Coe State Park

12 June, 2011

Henry W. Coe State Park

Photos by Andrea Guthrie*

“…while we may have been used to hiking long distances in other parks, the miles were much longer in Coe” Barbara Bessey on Ranger Barry Breckling, From Under My Brim


At 87,000 acres, Henry W. Coe is California’s largest State park. My Aunt and Uncle volunteered there for many years when they were living just a few miles from the park in Morgan Hill. I remember attending various picnics and family gatherings there as a child.

Today, I got lucky; my friend Andrea volunteered to drive to the park. A hiking buddy and a driver—Woo Hoo! What a treat! We initially arrived at the Hunting Hollow entrance in Gilroy. A good number of cars filled the parking lot and a group of backpackers prepared to take off on one of the longer backcountry trails; however, we decided to seek out the visitor’s center so we could get suggested hikes from the staff.

The main entrance to Henry W. Coe lies at the end of a narrow and winding road with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. The park itself consists of steep rolling hills of oak woodland and canyons, and consistently reminds me of Pooh Bear’s 100 acre wood only many times larger.

At the visitor’s center we met Ranger John Verhoeven, an open and friendly man built for hiking. Andrea and I chatted with him about the park for quite some time, and he suggested a six mile hike which he helpfully highlighted on a map; he even suggested that if we wanted to avoid steep climb at the end of the hike that we do the loop clockwise. Thank you Ranger Verhoeven for that piece of advice. When he said steep, he meant steep; it felt like wearing mountain sized stilettos on the descent. We met some folks traveling up this hill who implored us to turn around.


Lots of snags dot the region making excellent granaries for acorn woodpeckers, and the old watering holes for cattle remain as small ponds throughout the park. We saw a California striped racer and numerous bird species; wild flowers still populated some of the fields. A section of the trail travels past a grove of gigantic manzanitas and madrones.

While in the visitor’s center, I picked up a book written by long time state park Ranger Barry Breckling. The book, From Under My Brim: Stories from the California Coast Range, is a compilation of pieces he wrote for the The Ponderosa. The book details the natural and cultural history of the area, and is a fun and light read—great for kids around a campfire.

*Photo by Tova Fleming

Thursday, June 16, 2011

Day 9: South Yuba River State Park




11 June, 2011

South Yuba River State Park

Today, I visited South Yuba River for the first time which surprises me a bit given its elevated status among many of my friends and relatively short distance from Davis. My friend Karl volunteered to be my guide again and off we went.

We began our short stroll at the base of a bridge that crossed the river, traversed the fairly rocky but short trail to an outcropping of rocks, and then lounged like lizards on large boulders that protruded midstream. Stream is too modest a word for the power of the river on this particular day. The water roared to a deafening pitch, we had to yell to hear each other above it; it seemed the entire river turned to rapids—no frog water here.

Although, we did see a frog, or perhaps a toad, my skill identifying amphibians is poor. Raptors, however, are another story, I caught a glimpse of what looked like a golden eagle and watched a turkey vulture soar.

A waterfall emptied into the river just upstream, and I alternated my naps in a granite papasan carved out by the water with gazing out over the scene—a trance-like state induced by the rushing water.

The butterflies were much more active than I. Five small lavender butterflies danced around my head as I explored some the rocks near the waterfall. Western tiger swallowtails (Papilius rutulus) zipped and twirled together over and beside the river.

Later we decided to drive down to another part of the park and jostled down a dirt road in my little Corolla behind a small dark SUV whose movements revealed trepidation about continuing on. After a few minutes the SUV stopped, the driver and passenger got out and told us they were going to turn around. We were exploring new terrain, but felt confident enough in our direction to tell them there is a bridge across the river down here somewhere. The woman eyed us suspiciously, and decided that they would still turn around. We went around them and within a minute could hear the roar of the river.

The late rains made the hills around the trails lush with vegetation and a plethora of poison oak. There were still some wildflowers scattered about. At one point, the smell of lupine and wild rose was so strong I had to make sure I wasn’t imagining it. By late afternoon, the sunshine and the sound of the river put me into a bit of a stupor.

On our way home, we stopped to enjoy Nevada City and contributed to the local economy of the area surrounding the park.

Folks4Parks posted this quote on Facebook from a meeting regarding the parks on June 10th:

"The average visitor to a State Park generates $58 to the local economy surrounding that park." -John Severini, CA Travel Industry Association.

Another interesting, but unsubstantiated,tidbit is that parks generate more revenue in sales tax in the surrounding communities then California is “saving” by closing them.

If you are interested in getting active around the Yuba River, I suggest you check out South Yuba River Citizens League (SYRCL) at www.yubariver.org


Friday, June 10, 2011

Day 8: Castle Crags State Park, Shasta SHP & Weaverville Joss House SHP


3 June, 2011

Castle Crags State Park, Shasta State Historic Park, and Weaverville Joss House State Historic Park

Up at 4:30 today to make it to Castle Crags State Park with enough time to explore and then make my interview with my friend and ex-boss retired Ranger Dave Horvitz at Shasta Historic State Park. I Left the house under a clear pink sky at 5:30 just fifteen minutes before sunrise. As I drove up I-5, the sweet smell of alfalfa spilled through my open window.

I love stealing a morning all to myself. Only a few travelers crawled along 5 like the first few ants on an abandoned lollipop. All is quiet now, but I sensed the inevitable swarm and scurried along and took in the sweetness of before I was inundated.

One of my favorite things about driving long distances in California is watching the landscape change—from the big sky, egrets, and open fields of the valley to oak woodland to conifer bearing mountain ranges. When Shasta came into view, I pulled over to gawk under its authority. Snow still covered the volcano from the tip of the cone down to as far as I could see.

As Castle Crags came into view, I had to force myself to stop mountain watching from the driver’s seat. The temperature dropped to 46 degrees by the time I reached vista point at Castle Crags State Park where viewed three distinct mountains: Shasta formed from volcanic rock, Castle Crags from granite, and the Trinity Alps from serpentine.

I met Dave and his dogs Ike and Dinah (aka Ole Prune) at his home behind Shasta State Historic Park where he lives with his wife Heidi, the Superintendent of five California State Parks including Shasta SHP, Castle Crags, and Weaverville Joss House, and their two sons. We strolled up to the museum where Dave introduced me to Jackie. Jackie worked in the museum which used to be the original courthouse for the booming mining town. Upon hearing about my interest in writing, Jackie showed me two fascinating old papers from the formation of the town. One was an old map drawn by hand. “They didn’t always orient their maps to the north” she told me as I gazed at the meticulously crafted sketch.

During a major forest fire a few years back, the park began packing up the the 98 paintings by California artists donated by Mae Helene Bacon Boggs that hang in the museum along with other artifacts such as a Native American basketry collection. The collection has since been unpacked, but it was a huge project. The museum, aka courthouse, is complete with functioning gallows (which were used twice), a ghost, and a jail in the basement.

I walked with Dave a few hundred feet up the road there to an old cemetery. I felt like a Chihuahua walking with a Great Dane taking five steps to one of his; Dave is tall and a deft hiker from years of traversing backcountry wilderness.

Across the street the remnants of the town which once supported a population of more than one thousand people—more than live in Shasta today. The historic town includes a functional bakery and blacksmithing shop where local blacksmiths hold demonstration once or twice a month.

Dave is the embodiment of the American Park Ranger. He is fit, jovial, witty and sharp. He loves what he does and it shows. He beams when he talks about the parks, history, animals, environment, and even the quirky details of each park.

I will be posting my interview with Dave shortly, so stay tuned.

On my way to Weaverville Joss House, I spotted two Bald Eagles soaring over Whiskeytown Lake. By the time I arrived, the sky darkened and it began to rain. Inside the museum, I met Jack Frost a park interpreter born in the Grand Canyon. His father worked for national parks and mother worked for state parks. Jack is a full of energy, very kind, and shared his deep knowledge and passion about the Joss House with me and two other visitors.

The Joss House is a temple that is still in use today. Chinese migrants built it in 1873. These migrants were initially welcomed as workers, but when they showed up to mine for gold were retaliated against with vehemence. The Joss House became a way of saying “We are staying” and of bringing a bit of their own culture with them. The large and magnificent furnishings of the temple were brought over from China in the late 1800’s by boat and train—quite an undertaking. All the temples like this one in China were destroyed during a period of unrest.

Joss House served not only as a temple, but also as the first school for Chinese American children in Northern Californian. In a small room adjacent to the room for worship is the caretaker’s quarters, and classroom. One caretaker lived there for 61 years and ran the school, the temple, a business selling herbs, and served as the town bookie.

Joss House ADA ramp is curved to ward off evil spirits; it is believed that evil spirits reside in straight lines.

“What about the fence?” one of the other visitors asked.

“Evil spirits cannot reside in the fence because it is painted red which is a color that represents “good luck” Jack responded.

Before I left Jack told me to “take a look at a map and the parks that are closing. There will not be one gold rush historic map left north of Sacramento” Joss House serves more than 2000 school children a year, as does Shasta SHP. (As a side note Petaluma Adobe, also slated to close, serves 2000-6000 students per year).

This urn is still used to burn prayers written on paper, so they will be heard by the spirits